The History and Tradition of Mead
Mead is a honey-based fermented beverage that has been produced and enjoyed since before the dawn of recorded history. Because of its antiquity, mead has acquired an almost magical reputation in our mythologies. For example, the term “honeymoon” is intertwined with the custom of drinking honey-based mead for a month (moon) after the wedding; this practice was said to ensure baby boys. Mead making was once the province of a select, trained guild. Now, it is open to all who have the patience and skill. You are continuing this long and honored tradition. Welcome aboard and enjoy.
Mead is an important part of the Asatru religion and has a place in both of the major Norse rituals: the blot and the sumble. The sumble is a drinking ritual where stories, oaths, and poetry are shared and mead’s function here is obvious.
In this day and age mead is even more important to the blot or sacrifice ritual. The blot is actually quite simple. A God or Goddess is called upon and a sacrifice is poured in their honor. In ancient times this was most often an animal sacrifice and blood was poured out onto the ground or altar. Today an alcoholic beverage of some kind is the usual sacrifice. This is not only an adjustment to modern feelings about animal sacrifice, but is appropriate from an esoteric point of view as well. In ancient times the Norsemen were primarily farmers and an animal would have been a product that they had raised. Also, sacrifices were not a wasting of the animal, merely given to the Gods and left to rot, but were usually feasts where the Gods got their portion and the humans their own. Today mead making has been a frenzied activity among Norse Pagans, and it is most appropriate that something be sacrificed to the Gods which has been made by your own hands in a sacred manner. Mead fits the bill. It has the immediate links to our farming ancestors, but it can be easily made from household items in even a small apartment.
Finally, we have a few myths involving mead directly. Mead was known as Kvasir’s blood and it’s primary association was with wisdom. Kvasir was a being who was the wisest in all the universe, but he was killed and a mead created out of his blood that when drank brought the drinker wisdom. Aegir, a God of the Sea, was held to be the patron of brewing and the finest of mead and ale for the Gods to drink in Valhalla. Odin is said to never eat, but to exist purely on mead, just as the Greek Gods had their nectar.
The association with mead is not as prevalent in the Greek and Roman myths, but certainly exists. Bacchus is the quintessential god of vine and vegetation, so he is usually associated with wine. I have added him because of his association with brewing. Whether you see him as Bacchus, Dionysus, the Green Man, or some other vegetative god, the god of the vine is a key archetype in harvest celebrations.
The Greek Dionysus was representative of the grapes in the vineyards, and of course the wine that they created. As such, he gained a bit of a reputation as a party-hardy kind of god, and his followers were typically seen as a debauched and drunken lot. However, before he was a party god, Dionysus was originally a god of trees and the forest. He was often portrayed with leaves growing out of his face, similar to later depictions of the Green Man. Farmers offered prayers to Dionysus to make their orchards grow, and he is often credited with the invention of the plow.
In Roman legend, Bacchus stepped in for Dionysus, and earned the title of party god. In fact, a drunken orgy is still called a bacchanalia, and for good reason. Devotees of Bacchus whipped themselves into frenzy of intoxication, and in the spring Roman women attended secret ceremonies in his name. Bacchus was associated with fertility, wine and grapes, as well as sexual free-for-alls. Although Bacchus is often linked with Beltane and the greening of spring, because of his connection to wine and grapes he is also a deity of the harvest.
In medieval times, the image of the Green Man appeared. He is typically a male face peering out from the leaves, surrounded by ivy or grapes. Tales of the Green Man have overlapped through time, so that in his many aspects he is also
Puck of the midsummer forest, Herne the Hunter, Cernunnos, the Oak King, John Barleycorn, Jack in the Green, and even Robin Hood. The spirit of the Green Man is everywhere in nature at the time of the harvest — as leaves fall down around you outside, imagine the Green Man laughing at you from his hiding place within the woods!
Even if it were not for any mythological importance, mead is of interest to the modern brewer because it is easy to produce and delicious. One merely introduces a yeast to the sugary liquid, and the yeast converts the natural sugars into alcohol. After all the sugar is converted, the yeast dies off and the wine can be bottled. However, this is not always as easy as it sounds.
The Types of Mead
Mead is classified not by the kind of honey from which it is made, but by what else may be added to it for flavoring:
- “Traditional” mead is made with only honey, water, and yeast, plus perhaps a small amount of acid (to balance the sweetness).
- “Metheglin” is mead made with added herbs or spices, such as cloves or cinnamon. (The word is an English transliteration of the Welsh word “meddyglyn”, meaning “medicine”. Historically, medicinal herbs were infused into a sweet mead to make them more palatable.)
- “Melomel” is mead made with the addition of fruit or fruit juice to traditional mead. Melomel may also contain spices, as Metheglin does.
- “Cyser” is a particular Melomel made with apples or apple juice.
- “Pyment” may have two interpretations: a Melomel made with grapes or grape juice, or a wine sweetened with honey.
- “Hippocras” is a spiced Pyment.
- “Sack” is a name (or an adjective) for stronger meads made with more honey than usual, and therefore more likely to be somewhat sweet.
There are various other seldom-heard terms: “hydromel” (weak, literally “watered” mead), “rhodomel” (mead with rose petals), “omphacomel” (left as exercise to the interested student), and so on.
Depending on the initial amount of honey, and how attenuative (effective at fermenting sugars) the yeast is, the final mead may vary from quite dry and austere like some white wines, to very sweet.
Depending on the bottling process, the mead may be “sparkling” (carbonated) or “still” (no bubbles).
What Kinds of Honey?
There are many kinds of honey, based on which flowers the bees collected the nectar from. Bees aren’t loyal to any particular flower, so any characterization of honey as being from a particular source (for example, “blackberry honey”) can vary from absolutely true to a rough generality, depending on what flowers the bees can find and how interesting they find them. Honeys range in taste and color from the light clover through alfalfa to stronger tasting (and darker) such as buckwheat. There are many unusual honeys to be found where there are unusual local flowers. Which honey you will use depends both on which you like the taste of, and what type of mead you are trying to make. Stronger flavors go well in metheglins and heavier or sweet meads, while the milder honeys make a good base for melomels or dry traditional meads. Realize that a honey with an interesting-but-unusual taste can produce an overpowering character in mead.
You can buy honey in bulk from roadside stands or health food stores. You may be lucky enough to live near an apiary and be able to buy right from the beekeeper. Look in the phone book for honey, health food, or beekeepers. Sometimes, exterminators will remove hives, give the bees to beekeepers, and sell the honey. University agriculture departments occasionally sell honey. Be inventive. If all else fails, you may have to buy it from the grocery store.
The honey will be either raw or processed in some way. Raw honey has bits of wax, bee parts, dust, pollen, microorganisms, and the like in it. You have the most control in how you process raw honey, but you also have the most to do. Honey may be filtered, or blended, or even heat-pasteurized to make it clearer and less likely to crystallize. The more processed it is, the milder it is likely to be and the less character it will give to your mead. The processing also dissipates some of the honey’s aroma. Commercial, “grocery store” honey, crystal-clear and pale, is the most processed and is usually not a good choice for mead making.
Crystallized honey is normally acceptable for mead. In fact, it has two points in its favor: First, it generally indicates less processing, since one of the reasons for processing honey is to keep it from crystallizing. Second, it may be cheaper because it’s less appealing to the average consumer. (One point against crystallized honey is that if the sugar is drawn out into large crystals, the liquid surrounding them can be low enough in sugar content to allow some fermentation from wild yeast.) To re-liquefy crystallized honey so you can pour it, just heat it gently.
How Much Honey to Use
When you decide to start making your own recipes, you may be wondering how sweet the drink will be. This depends on the amount of honey and the type of yeast used.
For the purposes of the following chart, wine yeast can be considered equal to dry mead yeast. Ale yeast can be considered equal to sweet mead yeast.
This chart assumes a 5 gallon batch. For example: if you used 6 lbs. of honey/gallon (6 lbs. X 5 gallon batch=30 lbs. honey) and used a dry mead yeast, you would end up with a medium sweet mead (one with lots of alcohol, by the way). If you used a sweet mead yeast with this amount of honey you would end up with a very sweet mead.
Note: when a recipe says to use 5-6 lbs. of honey per gallon, that means 5-6 lbs. honey and enough water to make a gallon. Not 5-6 lbs. honey and a gallon of water.
Note: this chart does not take into account the sugars derived from any fruit or malted barley added to the mead. This chart is for straight meads only.
Yeasts
Mead is more a wine than beer, with a final alcohol level anywhere between 10 and 18 percent. Wine yeasts, which have a higher alcohol tolerance, may ferment slower at first (although some are remarkably fast) but will ferment more completely than ale or lager yeast. They are also less likely to produce “off” tastes which take a long time to age out after the mead is finished.
A partial list of some popular yeasts:
- Champagne: Ferments out very dry and has a high alcohol tolerance Epernay,
- Flor Sherry: Has a high alcohol tolerance and contributes a flavor that goes better with sack meads
- Steinberg:
- Prise De Mousse: Particularly neutral, fast-fermenting, and attenuate (leaves little residual sweetness).
- Tokay:
- Red Star (this is the one I use. Mainly the green one) Great flavor, high alcohol.

This list is by no means exhaustive. Yeast will impart its own unique characteristic to the mead. Some yeasts (such as Montrachet wine yeast) can produce noticeable levels of phenols (the throat-burning part of cough medicine), which age out eventually in bottle conditioning but are an unnecessary complication since there are yeasts that don’t produce them.
Yeast Nutrient
Honey by itself is low in some of the nutrients that yeast need to reproduce and quickly ferment out the mead must. Fermentation times can be measured in months as the yeast slowly trickles along. This is a disadvantage because as long as the fermenting mead remains sweet and low in alcohol, it is inviting to contaminating bacteria and lacks a good layer of carbon dioxide (CO2) to protect against oxidation. Mead makers can add a nutrient to help the yeast, and normally should do so if the only fermentable ingredient is honey. Fruit, particularly grapes, will contribute needed ingredients; thus melomels have lesser or no requirement for nutrients. Nutrients are normally added when the must is prepared.
There are several kinds of nutrients. Most winemaking shops will sell various salts designed for grape musts. While this is helpful for mead, too much can leave an astringent metallic flavor that will take months or years in the bottle to age out. Yeast extract, pulverized yeast, is also available. Dead yeast are exploded ultrasonically or in a centrifuge, and sold as a powder. Yeast extract will not leave the same metallic flavors as nutrients, but may be more difficult to find. It is not possible to make your own yeast extract at home.
Adding Acid
Acid may be added to the “must” (the honey water mixture you’re going to ferment) both to adjust the pH and to balance the sweet flavor of the honey. Yeast prefer an acidic environment. Many other micro-organisms don’t. The acid you add protects the must until the alcohol level creates a hostile environment for the competition.
Acid can be added in many forms. Winemaking suppliers sell acid blends, powder or liquid. Acid is measured in “as tartaric”, or how acidic the must is compared to pure tartaric acid. For example, if the must is 0.5 percent acid as tartaric, it is as acidic as if 0.5 percent of the must were pure tartaric acid. Inexpensive test kits will let you measure the acidity so that you can adjust it. Acid blends are a combination of tartaric, citric, and malic acids. You may be able to get the individual acids used in blends. Each contributes a slightly different taste in addition to acidity. The natural acid in fruits and berries will also acidify the must, for which reason melomels often need no additional acid.
Recipes
Basic Fruit Mead (Melomel)
10 lbs honey
15 lbs Berries (I used thawed frozen)
Yeast nutrient to instructions on package
1 pack yeast
Water to fill to 5 gallons
Herb Fruit Mead (Metheglin)
10-12 lbs honey
15 lbs Berries (I used thawed frozen)
Yeast nutrient to instructions on package
1 pack yeast
½ cup dry Elderberry flowers
½ cup dry Sweet Woodruff leaves
½ cup dry Damiana leaves
Water to fill to 5 gallons
How to Prepare the Must
The honey/water before fermenting is called “must”. You will want to add the honey to hot water in a large pot, but make sure the pot is not on the heat while doing this because the honey will fall to the bottom and caramelize (or stir vigorously if you leave it on the heat). Stainless steel or enameled kettles are preferred; aluminum is not ok. Do not use iron, nor enameled kettles with cracks in the enamel.
Some mead recipes recommend only heating the must enough to pasteurize it. This is because boiling honey will drive off some of the delicate flavors.
If scum rises while heating or boiling the must, skim it off. It consists of wax, bee parts, pollen, etc., which don’t help the flavor of the mead.
An alternative preparation method involves the use of “Campden tablets” or “sulfiting” to sterilize the must. If you’re a winemaker, you’ll recognize this method. With the use of Campden tablets, it is not necessary to heat/ boil the must at all first, although some mead-makers do so anyway for the sake of clarity of the final mead. If you use Campden tablets, follow a recipe or instructions for quantity, preparation, delay times before adding yeast, etc. Heating is probably easier than sulfiting for the beginning mead-maker.
Directions
Step 1
Alright let’s get started. Grab all your brewing materials and the sanitizer and it’s time to wash some dishes. This is a very important step. Unless you want to get sick with some kind of funky disease, I highly suggest that you not skip this step.
Step 2
Now that you have everything washed and sanitized, grab your brew pot and fill it with the best water you can get. Water with full of chemicals will produce off tastes. Once the water is in the pot, its time to bring it to a boil.
Step 3
Once your water is boiling, remove it from the heat. Add the honey to the hot water at this point. DO NOT add the honey to boiling water as it will burn and will ruin the crucial parts of the honey that make it able to become mead. If you want a dry mead, add less honey. For sweeter mead, add extra honey. Now stir it until the honey and water become one.
Step 4
Once the honey and water are good and stirred, it’s called a “must”. Let the must cool down to around room temperature then grab your funnel and carboy that is sanitized. Put the funnel in the mouth of the carboy and pour the must from the pot to the carboy.
Step 5
Once you have the must transferred into the carboy and it’s cooled off (the next day), Bloom your yeast separately, then add your yeast to it. Once the yeast is pitched in, its time to put your rubber stopper in the mouth of the carboy and put the fermentation lock in the stopper to release the pressure that will happen when the mead starts fermentation.
Step 6
Now it’s wait time. Put the carboy in a closet somewhere where the temperature is around 75 degrees F. (Room temp most of the time). After around 1-2 weeks, you’re going to want to rack the mead. Racking is to siphon the initial brew out of the first container to get the sediment and nastiness left at the bottom out of it. So, if you have another carboy, get it and make sure it’s sanitized, and grab your siphon kit. Siphon the mead out of the first container and put it in the other carboy.
Step 7
After anywhere from 1-2 months, rack again, it can most likely be consumed. Sometimes though it can take anywhere to a year for a mead to become fully matured. So really it’s just a sit back game from here. Every 1-2 months get a little sample out of the carboy to taste test it to see how it’s coming along. Once it reaches maturity or the taste to your liking, if you did everything right, it should be good to drink without any health issues.
Fermentation
Mead will take longer than beer to ferment. Fermentation times are often measured in months, so get another carboy. Mead likes to ferment a little warmer than beer (70F – 75), but should be stored in a cool place to bottle condition. You will have to rack mead (transfer it to a separate vessel, leaving behind the sediment) while it is fermenting. If you make any kind of mead beside traditional, you will have to rack about a week after starting to remove the bits of fruit or spices that settle out. Rack periodically after that to get the mead off the dead yeast and other matter that settles out–every 3-6 weeks depending on the rate of fermentation and settling. This improves the flavor and clarifies the mead.
Initial fermentation of melomels made with fruit (not just juice) is easiest in a food-grade plastic pail so that you can strain out the fruit before racking. Except for this, glass carboys with fermentation locks are the best fermentation vessels. Mead does not tend to form the huge head that beer does when starting fermentation.
Bottling

First, you must make sure the mead has stopped fermenting. Mead is such a slow fermenter that it may appear completely done, yet continues to ferment after bottling. This can turn a still mead into a sparkling one; it can even produce enough pressure to cause the bottles to explode. Exploding bottles– “glass grenades”–aren’t funny. They’re unpredictable and very dangerous.
To be sure the mead is done fermenting, take hydrometer readings spanning a week or more and be sure the readings are not still falling. Dry meads will also finish at a gravity below 1.000. As a mead finishes, it will “fall clear”–the initial cloudiness will settle out. Be careful, though, because being clear is not enough.
Choose appropriate bottles for the type of mead.
Still meads (uncarbonated, like normal wines) may be bottled in regular wine bottles with standard corks, or in crown-capped bottles as above. Since pressure isn’t an issue, almost any bottle with an airtight closure can be made to work. Bear in mind, though, that the appearance of your bottles is part of the first impression when you serve your mead.
Mead that has finished fermentation and is then bottled will be “still” (flat). Sparkling mead is “primed” by adding a small amount of sugar at bottling time to produce a short renewed fermentation so that it is carbonated. For predictable results (again, to avoid “glass grenades”), you should first let the mead finish fermenting in the carboy, then add just the amount of sugar needed to carbonate it. Bottling a mead before it finished fermenting (in hopes of capturing just the right amount of carbonation in the bottle) can lead to under- or over-carbonation, and even in the best case won’t give the mead a chance to finish clearing before bottling. A normal amount of priming sugar is about 4 ounces by weight for five gallons.
Store the bottles in a cool dark place. Mead is not as sensitive as beer to light (unless you have hops in it), but should not be left in bright light.
Wassail!
While reading the mead-lovers digest you will occasionally see the word “Wassail”. It’s a toast, an expression of good will, much as a beer drinker might offer “Prosit” or “Cheers”. The word derives from Old Norse through Middle English, and means “be healthy”. A modern German cognate would be “wacht heil.” The dictionary lists two pronunciations (wahs’ul, wah-sale’).
Legality
In the USA, mead is classified as a wine. A brief, informal (not legal advice!) synopsis: Federal regulations allow an adult to make up to 100 gallons a year, or 200 gallons per year per household of two or more adults, for personal or family use, with no tax or license required. It may not be sold. Concentration (including but not limited to distillation) is prohibited. State and local laws may impose additional restrictions, so check first. The usual situation is that home mead-making is allowed in any locality where commercial wine can be sold. Repeat: this is NOT legal advice.
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